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Selasa, 15 Desember 2015

Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM SLR Lens for EOS Digital SLRs

Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM SLR Lens for EOS Digital SLRs..


Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM SLR Lens for EOS Digital SLRs

GET Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM SLR Lens for EOS Digital SLRs By Canon

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929 of 969 people found the following review helpful.
5The answer to the crop sensor problem.
By Jim Krupnik
My take on this lens is that it is an "L" quality optic in a fine, non "L" package. There is nothing else on the market to compete with it (nothing at all), and it produces supurb images. It isn't an f/2.8 lens, but it is close enough for most uses. The competition from Tamron is a full stop slower, not as sharp, and is awful in dim light compared to the Canon 10-22 lens (sorry, Tamron fans, but the Tamron lens isn't even playing in the same ballpark).

I use this lens on a 30D body, and I always keep it on hand if I'm doing any indoor, or tight group photography. It is the perfect solution to the perennial problem of not having enough room to capture all the kids at a birthday party in one shot because your back is up against a wall. This lens will just about get your toes into the picture at the widest setting, yet delivers tack sharp, colorful, and contrasty images. The auto focus is spot on, silent, and fast. It is a must have lens for the active amateur, or any pro using a 1.6 crop factor camera. You simply can't beat this lens with anything available on the market today.

That beng said, do not try to convince yourself that this will make a good "walkaround" lens. It isn't. Even at max length, it is far too short to live on your camera as a standard lens. You need this lens, even if you don't know it yet, but it should not be your first lens, as it will only be used 15 to 20 percent of the time. At those times, it's performance simply cannot be equaled by any other zoom lens on a 1.6 crop factor camera. You will be amazed by the quality of this lens. It rivals the performance of modern prime lenses, presents a bright viewfinder image, and delivers the goods in tight situations.

This is not a casual assessment, nor a Canon "feel good" moment on my part. I developed my first B&W contact prints in 1964, in my own darkroom at the age of 9 (my parents were concerned:)), and have been an avid photographer ever since. Small, medium, and large format cameras and lenses have passed through my hands over the years, and Canon has become my favorite small format brand. Still, Canon builds some trash lenses that should be avoided. The 10-22 USM is not one of them :).

Before you go out and buy this lens, you should already own the EF-S 17-55mm IS f/2.8 lens. That is the king of 1.6 crop factor standard lenses, and includes the awesome Canon IS feature. It will end up being mounted on your camera 80% of the time, and keep you smiling after every shoot. Get that lens first. Then, get the 10-22mm lens. Then, let your imagination run wild, and plan on serious telephoto lenses for the future. Trust me or not, the two lenses mentioned above will provide you with photographic tools that will astound you. Get them in your kit as soon as you can afford them.

A little warning about either lens.... Some here will argue the point, but with either lens, get a GOOD quality UV filter that is multi-coated on both sides, and built extra thin to avoid vignetting at wide lens settings. A good filter will cost a little less than one hundred Dollars, and can cost up to one hundred forty Dollars. The minimum brand would be Hoya Pro 1 multi coated filters, and the ante goes up from there.

Everything else is garbage, including the Canon "sharp cut" filter that costs less than fifty bucks. No kidding, no conjecture. If you use cheap filters, you will never see what your lens can really do. Ever. No doubt that many will respond with claims that their twenty Dollar filter works just fine, but they simply don't know any better, and have never used their expensive equipment to it's full potential. It's akin to a Chevy owner passing judgement on a Mercedes Benz. The Chevy might feel real good, but until you own the Mercedes, you just have no clue.

Bottom line.... Make sure that the quality of your filters exceed the quality of your lenses. Yes, at a hundred bucks a pop for a 77mm filter, it hurts, but you will never regret it. Also, Amazon does not stock lens hoods for all non L Canon lenses. The price is stupid high for those hoods, but they make a night and day difference in in picture quality. Whenever you order a non L Canon lens, find a web seller who has the hood in stock, and get it right now. Again, you will never regret owning it.

That's it for my review/rant. Buy this lens. Buy the 17-55 IS f/2,8 first. Buy the lens hoods for both. Toss any "kit" lenses that came with the camera in the trash bin (where they belong), and be very happy.

277 of 294 people found the following review helpful.
5The best lens I own
By M. A. Filippelli
I have had this lens for several months now and let me start out by saying WOW. I looked at the lens in the store along with the Sigma 12-24 and I was in total awe of what I saw though the view finder with the Canon 10-22. This is an ultra wide angle lens that is incredible. I went home and thought about where I would use this lens and determined that I would use it quite a bit. I went ahead and bought the lens and I continue to be more impressed with it every time I use it. I have used the lens for both close-up (which can give you some very interesting distortion shots)and wide angle shots with great success.

The 10-22mm is equivalent to 16-35mm field of view using a canon 20D which is not a full frame sensor. With a minimum focal distance of .24m (about 9.5 inches) you can get very close to objects and still get alot of focal width in the photo. There is incredible clarity in the lens. The photos I have taken are very clear with only a slight hint of softening at the corners at 10mm; everything else is sharp after that. There is a little barrel distortion at 10mm but everything else up to 22mm is nice. I have not gotten any light flare in my photos. The Ultrasonic motor is very quiet. The depth of field is outstanding. A slim UV filter helps prevent some slight vignetting at 10mm. With a maximum aperture that ranges from f/3.5 to f/4.5, the Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Lens is a medium speed lens. I would recommend using a tripod if you are at all unsure about your ability to hold the camera still for action shots with this lens. The lens it's self is fairly light weight. If you are going to use filters the lens requires 77mm.

The lens can produce some interesting distortion shots if you are taking close-ups and are not perpendicular to the object. For close-up shots with out distortion it is best to be perpendicular to the object.

Inside the lens housing there are three aspherical lens elements and a Super UD element that produce clear vibrant shots. The lens it's self sturdily built and comfortable to handle.

UPDATE 7/30/2011: I still love this lens. It functions every bit as well as it did the day I got it.

600 of 648 people found the following review helpful.
4Very good lens, but expensive
By Svend
I am very impressed with this lens. I didn't realize just how wide-angle this lens was. At 10mm, I can stand just a few feet in front of a 13-story building, and get the whole thing in the picture, from the entrance to the top of the building.

As with all very-wide lenses, you have to be careful that you don't have people at the edges of the frame or too close to the lens, or they will appear very distorted when taking pictures at 10mm. Also note that a wide angle lens is not easy to use at first to create compelling images, as it's very easy to include too much clutter in your compositions.

PROS
- optical quality is excellent (deserves an "L" lens designation)
- uses the higher quality ring-type USM focusing
- minimum focusing distance is very close
- surprisingly lightweight
- very flare-resistant even without hood
- the only option for EOS digital cameras (Rebel, Rebel XT, 20D) to get true wide angle shots due to the smaller APS-C sensor in those cameras.

CONS
- It's expensive! But at least it is cheaper than a year ago.
- The lens is a little soft in the corners at 10mm, but is very sharp at 12mm and up.
- Canon has not formally committed to how long they will continue to make cameras and lenses using the EF-S system.
- The lens currently only works on the lower-end dSLR cameras -- the 10D, 1D, 1Ds, and 5D cameras cannot use this lens.
- The hood is not included with this lens, but it's such as ugly hood and the lens doesn't have flare problems, so I don't really think it is necessary anyway.

In 5 years when you upgrade your camera, there is a possibility that it will not support this lens. This depends on what direction Canon goes in making camera sensors:
1) continue to make cameras that use the smaller APS-C sensor, and keep improving its density to support more and more resolution. This will help keep the dSLR cameras smaller and lighter, and will necessitate making EF-S lenses the standard.
2) make the sensors match the size of a frame of 35mm film. And at the same time increase the density to yield even more resolution. Right now sensors this big are very expensive to produce.

I now think that #2 is more likely to happen. All the other lenses out there are built for a 35mm-film-sized sensor, and now that Canon has released another full-frame camera (5D) at a lower price, I'm betting that in another few years the APS-C sensor will be practically obsolete. A 5D body and 16-35 or 17-40 lens will give you better results than a 20D with this lens, but the difference in price between the two setups is a few thousand dollars right now.

The 10-22 is an excellent lens, but it will probably not hold its value as well as the Canon 16-35 and 17-40 lenses. A slightly more affordable alternative is the Sigma 10-20mm, which sounds like it nearly equals the optical quality of this lens.

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Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS25 16.1 MP Tough Digital Camera with 8x Intelligent Zoom (Red)

Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS25 16.1 MP Tough Digital Camera with 8x Intelligent Zoom (Red)..


Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS25 16.1 MP Tough Digital Camera with 8x Intelligent Zoom (Red)

Special Price Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS25 16.1 MP Tough Digital Camera with 8x Intelligent Zoom (Red) By Panasonic

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117 of 119 people found the following review helpful.
5Great Waterproof Point and Shoot
By Jamie
I have only used this camera underwater once so far, but it was absolutely fantastic. I took it to the swimming pool with my daughter and niece as a test run, and got some great shots of my niece swimming underwater, and alternated with underwater shots and above the water shots. The camera is made to slough off the water as soon as you pull it out, so the pictures out of the water don't have spots or water drops on them. It seems like a minor thing, but it really made a huge difference. As for being waterproof, it seemed to hold up great. After we got home, I noticed it had some chlorine spots on a couple pictures (after I tried to use a dry cleaning cloth on it) so I soaked it in a sink full of clean water for about 5 minutes, and voila! Perfect photos again. I've seen some reviews that say this camera doesn't work well inside, haven't noticed a problem myself. Pretty much every single picture I've taken with the camera has turned out with great color balance and good lighting. I have had a couple overexpose a bit with the flash, but hey, this is a point and shoot camera, not a professional grade camera. The overexposure can be fixed on the camera itself with the offered image editing or with editing software on your computer.

We'll be taking the camera on a trip to the lake in a week, so we'll see how it holds up with the sand and murky water, but so far I am more than pleased with this little camera, especially for the price! Can't wait to take it out and play with it some more.

EDIT: Used this camera on a trip in pools, lakes, and rivers. Had a blast. Got some great shots in the water, above the water, canoeing, kayaking, and even in a water feature fountain thing for the kids to play in, all with no worries about water leakage. I do recommend purchasing a floating wrist strap because the camera itself doesn't float if you drop it in deep water. Even in the lake and river the pictures came out great, though you need to be close to your subject in dirtier/murkier water. After a month and a couple weeks, I'd say it's already earned its keep for the price I paid. I think we took somewhere around 1600 photos on a two week trip with this little camera, and 99% of them were fantastic. I also bought an extra extended life battery, and with constant shooting, I did need to change the batteries about once a day. But, I take a LOT of photos.

EDIT2: After reading some of the other reviews here, I think something needs to be said - this is NOT an expensive, professional level camera. It isn't being sold as one, because it's not. No, you are not going to get perfect pictures every single time. You're not going to get perfectly clear-as-day underwater photos (although you will get some awesome ones). This is a point-and-shoot camera that you can take in the water with you. If you expect more than point-and-shoot quality, you should not buy this camera. But understand you will spend more money on something else. For the average user, it is an absolutely fantastic camera for the price. You can take it anywhere, it fits in your POCKET (how nice is that?) and it will stand up to being dropped, getting wet, getting cold, etc. Take it on your family vacation without worrying about it. Now try to do that with a $3000 professional camera. Also, for people saying the quality sucks, I have blown up some of the photos from this camera to 16x20 prints and hung them on the wall. I certainly can't tell they were taken with a $140 camera, and neither can anyone else.

72 of 83 people found the following review helpful.
5Don't know much about cameras but I like this one...
By Mike Jacobs
UPDATE 2: Just noticed another issue. The flash sometimes causes a bit of reflection the color of my finger along the right side of the imate, evidently becuase my fingers are too close (to the flash). This isn't an issue, I just move my fingers a bit. Good thing I preview work-pictures, though. I can't tell you how much I am appreciating the water and dust-proofing in this SE Florida monsoon season! No change in the rating.

UPDATE 1: Since purchasing I've used this quite a bit for work and personal photos. I still love the camera - I've been able to take pics in rain, around water and with a 4 year old hanging all over me without worrying about dust, water or dropping it. However, there are a couple of issues I haven't seen in other reviews: (1) the lens is easily "dirtied" by a finger print when you take this out of your pocket (no cover), and (2) I have to be more careful about taking photos in the direction of the sun or I sometimes get a big glare-streak... don't know why my other cameras didn't have this problem but it sometimes requires two hands (one to block the sun). These issues have not changed my rating.

ORIGINAL REVIEW: Lots of camera-geek analysis here, and from what I read Panasonic meets my criteria - fast cycle after shooting, wide angle, durable and mainstream ("reliable") manufacturer. I mostly take photos for work, and any modern camera is satisfactory for family use.

This has a wider angle than my Canon PowerShot, which I am replacing, and no moving parts. I can shoot in the rain and carry it in my shirt pocket, neither of which are feasible with the Canon. The unit is "closed" so that I won't get construction dust or lint inside the lenses, which is why I need to replace my Canon.

Other than that, it's just a nice camera that I can get wet or drop, with all the usual bells and whistles (90% of which I'll never use). The price:value ratio is very good for my needs.

72 of 87 people found the following review helpful.
3Works Well.
By DianeB
I took this camera to Mexico with us on vacation. The camera worked well and took some good pictures in and out of the water, as long as you used the normal optical zoom. My only complaint would be that the Intelligent zoom does not work very well, it's a bit grainy, especially in low light and under water. Saying that it has an 8X zoom is a bit misleading, since it is not a true optical zoom. Had no problems with leakage and we snorkeled for a couple of hours. My husband has an older model that has manual modes and a lot more picture options. Next time I would go with a higher end model to have those options. This camera is very small which can make it a bit hard to hold on to and the movie mode button is so small it is hard to push, especially if you had larger fingers. All in all I like the camera, but some small changes could make it much better.

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Sabtu, 05 Desember 2015

Olympus M Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro Interchangeable Lens

Olympus M Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro Interchangeable Lens..


Olympus M Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro Interchangeable Lens

Buy Olympus M Zuiko Digital ED 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro Interchangeable Lens By Olympus

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57 of 62 people found the following review helpful.
5Great Lens
By hp
Bought this from a NYC camera store and was delivered to me 11/11/13. I put myself on the wait list the minute it was announced so I am likely one of the first to get this lens. I have had only a few days worth of shooting but will put my initial impressions here.

Pros:

1. Superb optics. I am not a pixel peeper but no issues at any focal length even wide open. The lens is very sharp with fair contrast. No significant distortion. Slight CA. No noticeable vignetting in real life situations. I am not sure if my EM-5 is correcting for this lens with software. I have not tried on Panasonic bodies. All of this at a constant f2.8 throughout the zoom.

2. Size. No comparison to larger format lenses with a constant 2.8 aperture in this focal range. Others manufacturers might make FF and APS-C cameras smaller and smaller but they cannot match the size of the m4/3 lenses.

3. Very useful zoom range for the average shooter. This can be the one lens you can have for the entire system. It covers semi-wide to semi-long, good for landscapes to portraits. You might want to get prime lenses for bigger aperture, smaller size or shallower DOF/subject isolation but with the newer m4/3 cameras that do well at higher ISO, this lens is fine even for night-time photography.

4. Fantastic build quality. Olympus 75mm might be a tad better made but it is close. I should know; I own most primes from Olympus and Panasonic and a few zooms. I have tried almost every lens made for the m4/3 system from any manufacturer from friends. The lens is solid with good heft but not too heavy. It has good dampened rings which are as good as any m43 lens although inferior to lenses from Leica or older (pre-digital) lenses from Nikon, Canon, Olympus, etc.

5. Looks fantastic. I know it has nothing to do with picture quality but if I was not into visually pleasing things, I would not be into photography in the first place.

6. Lens button. I love the fact I can assign DOF to this.

7. Auto focus/Snap focus. It's as fast and as quiet as any m4/3 lens used on my EM-5. The snap focus feature by pulling the focus ring back is something that gives Olympus a significant advantage over other manufacturers. Brilliant.

8. Included hood and lens pouch. I thought h*ll would freeze over before this would happen. It is getting colder recently.

9. On that topic; weather sealed.

Cons: (Minor)

1. The lens is not fully retracted at 12mm. It is actually fully retracted at 16mm. Thus, if you store with lens at 12mm, the front element is not completely against the body. I am not sure if this will impact durability over time as it is carried/stored.

2. The lens cap is huge (for Olympus). They needed to redesign the lens cap due to the hood but I feel it is too thick now.

3. The lens crashed my EM-5. The camera crashed when I first attached this lens. I am not sure if Olympus will issue a firmware update. It was interesting to find out the power lever on the EM-5 is software based; i.e., flipping it did not turn off the camera when it crashed.

4. Made in China, like iphones, ipads and most other electronics. I was hoping for Made in Japan.

Overall, a great lens and highly recommended for anyone looking for an all-around lens for the m43 system.

20 of 21 people found the following review helpful.
5This is not your average Zoom!
By NyArtboy
Honestly, what can I say about this lens that hasn't been already said? This lens has become for many reviewers and bloggers, either the Lens of the year or runner up. This lens has pro level IQ, amazingly fast AF and one of the most useful all around focal range for photography today. at 2x crop factor on m4/3 it behaves like a 24-80mm. It has nice bokeh and good DOF (Depth-of-field) at 35mm+ (70mm) and very sharp at 12mm (24mm) wide angle. Some sites have said that the 12mm f2 lens is slightly sharper but to me it's negligible. PLUS you get all this IQ and focal range in a weatherproof package! Pair that up with the OM-D EM-1 and you have an adventure waiting to happen!

Another question that pops up frequently on blog pages and review sites is the question between this and the high quality prime lenses out there for the m4/3 format. My opinion (just my 2 cents) is if you plan on shooting on nice bright days and don't want the hassle of changing lenses, then bottom line, this is your lens. On sunny/bright days you will end up stopping down the prime lenses anyway so you will get just the same amazing results especially if you pair this with an Olympus OM-D that adds in-body 5-point IS and Chromatic fixes in the software for this specific lens.

On the other hand, if you like to shoot in low light, have no problem switching lenses, and generally want the ability to achieve the maximum DOF (depth of field) you can get on the m/43 format than stick with primes. Though to be fair, the bokeh and DOF is perfectly fine for my taste on this lens at the higher focal lengths. Plus it has an amazingly short focusing distance so you can get pretty darn close to your subject which will increase the DOF as well.

If you are concerned with price, you shouldn't be. A lens of this quality at this price is an amazing deal. Here is my cost comparison/value break down:

If you bought the 12mm F2 and 45mm F1.8 you would be $200 above the cost of this lens (all brand new) and only have 2 focal lengths.
The equivalent price in primes would be the 17mm f1.8 and the 45mm f1.8 but you lose the nice wide angle 12mm focal length and gain possibly the "best portrait lens" for m4/3 cameras with nice creamy bokeh and sharp IQ.
To me the ideal prime set is the 12mm f2, 25mm f1.4 (Panasonic) and 45mm f1.8 which puts you at roughly $1800 give or take.
A nice f2.8 combo would be this lens (12-40mm f2.8 Pro) and the 60mm f2.8 macro giving you a fully capable system of varied focal lengths plus macro and medium telephoto capabilities all for about $1400.

Pros:
Extremely Sharp IQ corner to corner
Super-fast AF (I think faster then my L series lens tbh)
The best and most versatile focal lengths for everyday photography
Ability to get very close to subjects. Just a few inches in fact
Large Aperture for decent bokeh and DOF
Weather-proof!
All metal construction
MF 'choke' design for quick switching to Manual Focus mode
Includes a customizable L-FN button on lens for additional functionality.

Cons:
Big and somewhat heavy (though half the size of lets say the Canon 24-70mm f.28 L) - The size doesn't bother me in the least I have to add. Makes the E-M1 look pretty awesome.
Tube Extends during Zooming (would have liked the elements to stay within the lens, thought this would probably double the price)
Not the smoothest zoom and focus ring on the market. The other primes I have are way smoother. In fact there is small 'tap-like vibrations' when zooming. After speaking with Olympus directly they informed me this is normal operation.
Loses almost 2 stops compared to the primes available today for m4/3 format cameras.

I'm happy to answer questions posted here in Amazon. Good luck!

16 of 17 people found the following review helpful.
5Outstanding lens
By M. Gotts
I've owned Olympus' OM-D E-M5 camera body since Christmas 2012. Using the kit 12-50mm and the 40-150mm (24-100mm and 80-300mm 35mm equivalent) lenses I've had a fun year capturing photos. The camera has been everything I wanted it to be, with the exception of being just average tracking kids playing soccer.

But the 12-40mm f/2.8 lens takes the camera to a different level. I thought I was getting decent performance from the 12-50mm lens -- and I thought wrong. It's okay, for what it is, but it's slow (f/6.3 at 50mm) and just average in sharpness. With nothing to compare to, I didn't realize how it was holding back the E-M5's potential.

The 12-40 is truly top caliber. Sharp from corner to corner. Chromatic aberration cannot be found. Fast for extending the E-M5's low light capabilities at modest ISOs (I can gain nearly three stops from the 12-50mm in many situations). On the PC I'll zoom in on shots and be astonished by the crispness that simply didn't exist before.

Having never owned an expensive DSLR (I had a decent Nikon FE2 film body and some Vivitar Series I lenses in the 80's, however), I'd been lulled into thinking the images I was capturing were simply all that such a camera was capable of. The E-M5 is a very good micro four thirds body, after only the new E-M1. What difference could one lens make? Well, as it turns out, a great deal.

The 12-50mm has a smooth motor drive mode for video (which I rarely shoot) and a dedicated macro mode, which is nice. But the 12-40mm, while not being optimized for macro, turns out to be a fully capable macro lens as well, better than the 12-50, IMHO, because of its superior resolution and significantly faster performance and ability to isolate at f/2.8. The only step up for close up photography being to a dedicated macro lens. (And yes, I know that with regards to depth of field it is twice that of a full frame sensor. But f-stop is dimensionless, and with regards to light-gathering-per-sensor-size/exposure/ISO, f/2.8 is f/2.8 is f/2.8, whether it be APS, M43, full frame or a large format camera.)

The only thing I don't like is the price. $1,000 was a big chunk. But the way it has changed the performance of the E-M5 is truly revelatory. There really is a significant optical difference between a decent mainstream consumer lens and a pro level lens. The 12-40 lives on my camera now, and the 12-50 is going to end up on eBay.

If you've got the E-M5 or M1 and can afford it, this lens is a no brainer and will not dissappoint. Since the long end is only 80mm equivalent, I think even Lumix body owners can enjoy it's benefits despite not having the in-camera stabilization that Olympus bodies have.

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Minggu, 29 November 2015

Fujifilm X20 12 MP Digital Camera with 2.8-Inch LCD (Silver)

Fujifilm X20 12 MP Digital Camera with 2.8-Inch LCD (Silver)..


Fujifilm X20 12 MP Digital Camera with 2.8-Inch LCD (Silver)

Buy Fujifilm X20 12 MP Digital Camera with 2.8-Inch LCD (Silver) By Fujifilm

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399 of 413 people found the following review helpful.
5Great alternative to SLR's
By Eric Slay
I am a professional photographer and a previous owner of the Fuji X100. The reason I got the original Fuji, and then this x20 was that I wanted to have a nice looking camera I could take with me on trips, etc. that would take great pictures without weighing a ton and being a huge cumbersome burden (like my 5dmk3).

Other than the great looks, I wasn't a big fan of the X100. It had so many glaring flaws that I returned it after a week of use. I am happy to say that this x20 model has addressed most of the issues that made the x100 such a pain. Rather than go into them specifically, I'll just give you my thoughts on this new model.

First, and foremost, the camera takes amazing pictures. This is not an overstatement. I have used all levels of point&shoot cameras over the years and this one is the first to really produce SLR-like quality in a small form factor. The pictures are sharp, the focus is accurate, and the colors are rich. Another way of putting it is this: there are always tell-tale signs that pictures are shot with a P&S camera: too sharp, too much contrast, too vibrant, etc. This camera produces these qualities (sharpness, contrast, vibrance) through great optics, NOT through in-camera processing. It's the real-deal, and you can see the difference.

The build quality of the camera is fantastic. It is sturdy, made primarily of metal, and feels great in my hands. Most important controls are easily accessed with dedicated buttons. I especially like the +2 to -2 exposure control dial on the top. This is something that I use all the time on my SLR and something I think a lot of non-pros could benefit from. When the sensor is tricked by backlight, just dial it up, when things are too bright and getting blown out, just dial it down. It's easy and fast and it's second nature to use for me.

The only control that I think is left out is a thumb controller for the focus point. As it currently is, you must press the AF button (on a wheel with macro, flash, and timer) and then scroll around to change the focus point. It's not a deal-breaker, but it would have been nice to have an 8way dedicated thumb controller for the focus point. I change my focus points constantly, and I just can't do it as fast as I'd like on this model. On top of this, when you look through the eyepiece, which you should be most of the time, you can't change it. You need to take your head back and look at the back of the camera.

I also love the variety of modes the camera has. There are so many that I haven't been able to master the benefits of each setting yet. Here's a brief synopsis:

P, S, AE, and M are the usual suspect that all cameras have.

SR is an advance auto mode that determines the best settings based on the scene. It even shows its predictions, so you can see if it is accurately assessing the situation. From my experience, it's startlingly accurate. It chooses from: landscape, night, tripod, beach, sunset, snow, sky, greenery, and sky & greenery. Having these settings on a camera is old news, but having the camera predict the scene itself and do so with great accuracy is a pretty exciting advancement.

Adv. Advanced lets you make some stylish choices and make your pictures look a little Instagram-ish. I'm not a huge fan of this kind of thing, but I suspect many people will be. The choices are: toy camera (lomo), miniature (tilt-shift), pop-color, high-ley, low-key, dynamic tone, soft focus, and a handful of partial-color masks (everthing BW except reds, etc.).

In this mode, I LOVE the tilt-shift (miniature) setting. I used to own a $1600 tilt-shift lens that I'd pull out once a wedding and use, but sold it because I wasn't using it enough. Now I've been using this and getting the greatest results.

Motion Panorama: an onscreen guide steps you through making a panorama.

Pro-Focus: the camera takes 3 pics and then softens the background to make a portrait-like shot. This actually works better than you'd expect, but I don't use this feature to take portraits.

Pro-Low light: This combines 4 pictures of poorly-lit subjects and combines them. The problem with this and Pro-Focus is that if your subject moves (and they always are, even if just by breathing), it doesn't work well.

Multiple Exposure: You can use this to combine several pictures into one. For example, you can take a picture of the moon, then recompose your shot, and place that same moon in the sky over a cityscape. I've used this to create ghost-pictures to scare my kids.

SP (Scene-Position): This is your standard setting where the user gets to choose what their shooting. The choices are portrait, portrait enhancer, landscape, sport, night, night (tripod), fireworks, sunset, snow, beach, underwater, party, flower, and text.

And finally, there is the macro mode, which is excellent. It is so good, in fact, that I am selling my macro-lens that I use for ring shots because I can actually get results just as good (possibly better) using this camera. And, because the looks of the camera are non-point&shoot looking, I can pull it out on the job and nobody blinks an eye.

---

In summary, I think this is a terrific alternative for a bulky SLR. If you're a pro, I think you'd be happy to let this little camera take the place of your SLR on trips to the park, the beach, or on vacations with your family. If you are a hobbyist or family-shooter, I think you should definitely consider this over (or in addition to) a SLR because the best camera is always the one you have with you. If your SLR is too heavy, you'll leave it at home and then all you'll have is iPhone pictures.

I hope you found this review helpful. If so, let me know! I'd be happy to answer any questions you have. :)

164 of 175 people found the following review helpful.
5Fujifilm X20: Superb performance + excellent ergonomics ★[Updates]★
By John Williamson
Fujifilm is a fascinating photo and imaging manufacturing company, a survivor in a world where we've witnessed the demise of such cameras as those from Minolta, Konica, Yashica, Contax, Topcon, Bronica and too many more to mention here. The company has survived largely because of good business practices and listening to the needs of photographers.

The Fujifilm X20 is a camera in which I had been highly interested since the release of this and the Fuji X100s early this year. I had looked seriously at the Fujifilm X10 last year, but there were some subjective needs that for me it didn't meet, so it was passed on. I'm glad that I waited, as the number of improvements over the X10 is quite large. There are said to be about fifty improvements that have been made, but in all fairness, I won't get into a Fuji X20 vs. X10 comparison here, as my experience with the earlier model was limited to just a few days use.

Getting right down to the subjective points, followed with a more detailed look based on personal use, here are my basic observations.

◆ Pros:

+ Excellent retro design; solid build quality coupled with good contemporary ergonomics
+ Sharp 4x optical zoom; comfortable 28mm to 112mm f/2.0- f/2.8 equivalent, image stabilization
+ Has a 7-blade aperture diaphragm; contributes to excellent bokeh effects
+ EXR Processor II dual CPUs; cold start-up time about ½ second, super-fast sequential shooting
+ Near-instant autofocus; virtually no time lag when the shutter button is pressed
+ New 2/3-inch X-Trans CMOS II sensor; 12MP, offers excellent image quality
+ Hybrid AF; autofocus instantly switches between high-speed phase detection AF and contrast AF
+ Front focus selector dial; AF-S (single autofocus), MF (manual), AF-C (continuous autofocus) modes
+ Advanced OVF; optical viewfinder offers exposure info overlay via Digital Trans Panel, 85% coverage
+ 2.8-inch color LCD monitor; approximately 460,000 dots, 100% coverage
+ Excellent ergonomics; rational array of controls, easy to master
+ Rechargeable NP-50 Li-ion battery; averages 190 - 220 shots per charge depending on settings, actual
+ Full manual exposure plus Program, Aperture- and Shutter priority modes and more
+ Uses readily-available SD, SDHC and SDXC memory cards; full support
+ RAW (RAF format) support; also offers JPEG and RAW+JPEG
+ ISO range is 100-12800 (in Auto); control available up to ISO 3200
+ Excellent ergonomics; raised grip area on the body with a thumb rest, add to handling
+ Threaded socket on shutter button; allows for threaded cable releases, soft shutter buttons
+ Made in Japan; all of Fujifilm's X-Series cameras are made in Japan
+ Built-in advanced filters; allow a choice of 8 artistic effects

◆ Cons:

- Battery life could be far better
- Wish this camera would go to 24mm wide angle
- Picky point: the X20 lacks a built-in neutral density filter

◆ First Impressions:

The X20 came well packaged in a distinctive black box, and from the moment it was opened and taken out, the feel of a solid, precision camera was quite apparent. This is truly a camera for advanced users, or pros looking for a good backup or weekend camera. It's crafted from a die-cast magnesium alloy, and the ergonomically placed mode dial and zoom ring are milled from solid aluminum. The professional feel is there, and is reminiscent of its more costly brother, the Fujifilm X100S, and along with its overall retro styling is a small engraved "Fujinon Lens System" logo on top, reminding us of some of the classic 35mm rangefinder cameras of the past. And on the rear, just to the lower right of the LCD screen, is the discretely engraved "Made in Japan" note in white letters against the black of the camera body.

Followed the directions in the printed instruction manual and charged the battery for about two hours while reading and going through the box contents. The X20 came packaged with the following:
● Rechargeable NP-50 Li-ion battery
● BC-50B battery charger with US plug attachment
● Shoulder strap with protective pads
● Triangular strap clips & attachment tool
● Lined push-on metal lens cap
● Proprietary USB cable
● CD-ROM (with MyFinepix Studio 4.2 viewer software, RAW file converter, etc.)
● 141-page owner's manual (1-Egnlish, 1-Spanish)
● Fujifilm USA warranty directions

There's something to be said for Fujifilm's attention to detail with this camera, as they've supplied a small plastic attachment tool with the triangular strap clips. That means no more scratches on the body or broken fingernails while attaching the camera strap clips. The BC-50B battery charger indicator glows steadily when charging, and cuts off when the battery is topped up. I put the USB cable in a safe place (it's proprietary, so don't lose it), and once the battery was fully charged, inserted a Class 10 SDHC card and took the X20 out for a trial run to get a feel for it.

◆ The X20 in Use:

Following the instruction manual, I did some preliminary setups, setting the camera to its Quick Start mode from the Fuji X20's power management menu. The first thing that I noticed was the exceptionally fast start-up time, which only took about ½ second. Shutter lag is almost nonexistent while in this mode, and on top of that, the autofocus is incredibly quick, perhaps the fastest that I've ever encountered. Technically this is due to the X20's built-in phase detection and its "Intelligent Hybrid Autofocus system," but from a practical perspective of a user who could care less about specs with an eye in the viewfinder, this is exceptionally good for action photographers and street shooters.

Speaking of viewfinders, the X20 has an excellent and highly useful optical viewfinder, one that's far more functional than my older Nikon P7100 and many other similar cameras. The optical viewfinder shows 85% coverage continuously, which is fine, and there's a diopter adjustment which is good for those of us with corrective vision. But it also has a Digital Trans Panel that shows highly useful information, such as aperture, shutter speed and focus area. There's a sensor next to the optical viewfinder that automatically senses when the camera has been lifted to the eye, and it turns off the rear LCD screen when you do so. It took a few minutes to get used to this, but after awhile I found that I was using the optical viewfinder far more than I ever did with the Nikon P7100, which was a surprise. It's also good when you have a sun in the face shooting situation.

The X20 has a 460,000 dot, 2.8-inch TFT LCD screen. It's a decent screen that's bright and clear, enough so that it deals with reflections and glare fairly well. This high-contrast screen has a wide viewing-angle, and makes dealing with its excellent GUI menu system easy. That said, it's slightly disappointing that it doesn't have the +920,000 dot 3-inch LCD display found in the Nikon P7700 and other premium compact cameras currently on the market. It's not a show-stopper, but a subjective consideration.

As expected, the camera offers complete PSAM control along with other settings from the top mode dial near the shutter button. There's a good sized exposure compensation control to the right of the mode dial, useful when taking photos of very bright, dark or high-contrast subjects, which offers ± EV in one-third increments. On the front is the front focus selector dial, offering AF-S (single autofocus), MF (manual), AF-C (continuous autofocus) modes. There are plenty of other controls on the camera, each offering specific ways to manage various settings and options.

In regular use, I found a mild irritant in that the X20 powers down automatically after a few minutes. When this happens, you have to twist the on/off mechanism on the collar surrounding the lens barrel to turn it on again. There is a workaround: go to the menu, and find the standby mode. Setting this means that you can have the camera wake up by gently depressing the shutter button, which is quite practical if you're often in this situation.

There's a Q (Quick Menu) button next to the menu controls, and it's quite handy. It displays the most frequently accessed settings on a single screen so that you can quickly navigate to each setting individually and use either scroll wheels to change the value or function of the setting. This made access of the various functions such as ISO settings, white balance, dynamic range, image size and such to be far easier than exploring the camera menus. Tried various shots accessing trying film simulation, the different metering settings and such, all as part of the learning experience. This shortcut method is far better than digging into the viewfinder menus to access the various features. Some magazine reviewers have suggested that it might be better if the X20 had a touch screen so that one didn't have to scroll around the quick menu, but I disagree. If you own a smartphone or tablet, such as a Kindle Fire, just imagine those same streaks and smudges on the screen of the camera. Simply put, the small Quick Menu button, along with the programmable Fn (Function) button on top, quickly became my allies.

◆ The Lens and More:

I've been a fan of Fujinon since my 4x5 view camera days when I owned a superb Fujinon 90mm f/8.0 SW lens, and it's good to see that the same attention to detail found then has carried through onto the X20. For the technically minded, its 4x optical zoom is made up of 11 glass elements (not plastic) in 9 groups, including 3 aspherical lens elements and 2 ED lens elements, with a proprietary HT-EBC coating applied to control flare and ghosting from appearing on images. It's also image stabilized, which helps for low light shooting without a tripod.

What this means to you and me is that we have a metal barreled lens that performs beautifully, offering sharp, clear images throughout its entire range. The zoom action is smooth, and it offers both a Macro and Super Macro mode, allowing you to get as close as 0.3" from your subject. The lens incorporates 7 diaphragm blades which enable you to create a good-looking soft 'bokeh' effect to make your subject stand out from the background perfectly, especially at the f/2.0 aperture setting. At 28mm you have a maximum aperture of f/2.0, and its f/2.8 at the 112mm telephoto end, so the lens is plenty fast.

You might find the occasional compact digital with a 4x lens that's as good as the one on the X20, but you'll be very hard pressed to find one that's better, at least not yet.

Regarding image performance, the colors produced in images are pleasingly saturated without being overdone. The standard color setting (Provia) is good for most situations, while for portraits you may want to play with the Astia color setting, which renders images with a softer look for better skin tones. The Velvia emulates a more saturated fine-grained slide film, which is the choice of many nature and landscape photographers but you should explore these film emulations to see which is best for your shooting.

The X20 has an increased sensitivity ISO range going to ISO 12,800, but for best results, you may wish to stick between ISO 100 and 800. At ISO 1,600 you'll begin to get soft details with some grain present, and beyond ISO 3,200, contrast drops and noise becomes noticeable. These are subjective observations, and your level of acceptability may be different.

A full 360° panorama can be shot, and the panoramic options can be found in the Advanced mode.

The Advanced Filters selection offer a choice of eight artistic effects, and you can preview the effect on the LCD monitor before you press the shutter button. These filters cover High Key, Low Key, Soft Focus, Toy Camera (with shaded borders), Miniature, Pop Color, Dynamic Tone, Partial Color (retain one color and change the rest of the photo to b&w), along with multiple exposure. Have not fully explored all of these filters, but the High Key and Dynamic Tone filters are surprisingly creative for in-camera work.

Video performance of the X20 was good, and resulted in sharp details and excellent colors, though I'll admit that I'm an infrequent video shooter and easily satisfied in this regard. The continuous autofocus on the X20 performs well with a gradual transition from close to infinity. You can shoot 1920 x 1080 Full HD videos, and the onboard stereo microphone also picked up ambient sounds clearly. There's a movie setting on the mode dial, but be aware that there is no dedicated video button.

There's a built-in automatic flash (referred to as the "Super intelligent Flash"), and for snapshots and the like, it works fairly well. You slide the pop-up switch on the rear of the camera, then select from a variety of modes from the selector to the right of the menu button, such as Auto, Forced Flash, Suppressed Flash, Slow Synchro and Red-eye Removal. It does a reasonably good job, and the built-in red eye works well. If you're serious though, you may want to look at a more powerful flash to mount onto the X20's hot shoe.

◆ Other Observations:

The battery life for the X20 is listed in the specs as being approximately 270 frames, but if you're a heavy user, especially if you have the camera configured for performance shooting, you may find that you get somewhere between 190 and 220 actual shots. During one session taking rapid sequence shots, the battery warning indicator came on at ~150 shots. This is not surprising for this or most other digital cameras, and luckily the Fujifilm NP-50 Li-ion Rechargeable Battery is readily available and worth getting as a backup. Owners of other Fuji digital cameras may already have this battery, as it's the same one that came with my older Fujifilm F300EXR, which is still in service. In any case, it's highly recommended that if you go for this camera, get yourself this backup battery.

The zoom lens is threaded for Ø40mm filters and accessories, and don't make the mistake of ordering a Ø40.5mm filter. That half a millimeter does make a difference, so if you want a UV or protective filter on the front of the lens be sure to get the 40mm size. The other option would be to go for the Fujifilm Lens Hood LH-X10, a two-piece unit that screws into the 40mm threaded end, yet allows for a vast array of commonly available Ø52mm filters... and Nikon DSLR owners probably already have a number of these.

If the Fuji LH-X10 is a bit rich for your blood (check the price), the Lens Hood LH-JX10 for Fuji X10 with Lens Adapter is a perfect replacement at a far lower cost, and it accepts Ø52mm filters just like the original LH-X10. I bought this along with a Fujifilm Camera Lens Filter PRF-52 Protector Filter (52mm), and both are on my X20 right now.

I looked at considered a number of case options for the X20, and while there are some nice retro-look leather cases by Fuji and others, found that the Think Tank SubUrban Disguise 5 Compact Shoulder Bag was perfect for my individual needs, as can be noted in my review of bag. It holds not only my Fuji X20, but my Nikon P7700 as well, where either could be grabbed easily and quickly on a moment's notice for fast street photography or action shooting. This solves the problem of where to carry spare batteries, my Android phone and other essentials, along with protecting all against an accidental rain shower.

Speaking of retro, there's a slightly-overlooked feature, and that's with the shutter button. Look closely and you'll see that it's threaded like the old 35mm rangefinders from years ago. This means that if and when you're using the X20 on a tripod, you can employ a mechanical cable release time exposures or for macro photography. There are many different one available here. You can also use a soft shutter release button that screws into that same threaded socket for greater control. It's a nice touch.

To be honest, I did not install the MyFinePix Studio software that comes on the CD. For some it may be a decent, basic way of importing and viewing your photos to your computer, but I cannot offer an opinion. For Adobe users, Camera Raw 7.4 and DNG Converter 7.4 became available as a final release on April 2nd, 2013 as announced by Adobe's Lightroom Journal. The good news for Adobe users is that among others, this upgrade specifically impacts the Fujifilm X20 and the X100S. If you use Adobe software, you know what to do, and enough said on this.

If you want a small point-and-shoot digital camera that slips easily in a pocket, this isn't it. The X20 will fit in many large coat pockets, but is best carried in a bag, a case or around your neck, ready to shoot. The strap might be worth replacing, as its non-slip pad actually chafes the neck if you're wearing a short sleeve or t-shirt in warm weather. This became an annoyance during the first warm day of shooting this spring.

If asked to recommend a better digital camera to advanced enthusiasts, pros looking for a DSLR backup, or amateur photographers wanting to break into street photography, this would be a good choice. And if I had to personally pick one as a sole camera for weekend travel photos, this would be within the top of a very narrow list.

Note: this review will be 'dynamic' in that as other findings with the use if the X20 will be noted here. Major notes and additional resources will be noted in the comments.

◆ Update 5/10/2013:

After putting the X20 through its paces with thousands of images since it was received, I've ordered a total of three extra Fujifilm NP-50 Li-ion rechargeable batteries as noted in the link above. These have settled down to giving about 200 to 230 exposures per charge. I did order and try a lower-priced third party battery, and after three charge cycles, that battery was only giving 120 to 130 shots. Trashed that one.

Also found that the SanDisk Extreme Pro 8 GB SDHC Class 10 UHS-1 Flash Memory Card with its 95MB/second write time proved to be perfect for sequential high-speed no-lag shooting. This size outlasts the batteries, but there are larger sizes available. Just remember to format it within the camera, and not on a PC or Mac.

Also see the comments here for additional findings, and yes, I do respond to questions as can be seen there.

◆ Update 5/23/2013:

★ Firmware Update Notice ★
On 5/16/2013, Fujifilm Global published its X20 Firmware Update Ver.1.02, a standard procedure for digital cameras where the user can update the camera. This firmware update is only for the X20, and does not apply to the X10 or any other models. You'll find details on this update in the comments section to this review on this date as outside links cannot be posted within the body of the review.

◆ Summary:

The Fujifilm X20 is one of many in a growing field of advanced digital compact cameras, and the competition continues to grow. But Fuji has been good in listening to the photographers' needs, and along with the new Fujifilm X100S, we see generational cameras that are more evolutionary than revolutionary. The +50 improvements in the X20 over its predecessor back this up. The Image quality and resolution we find here push it up to class-leading levels, and few can offer a better lens and sensor-size combination. Image quality and a multitude of user options are half the reason that I personally find the X20 to be so good; superb performance and excellent ergonomics make up the rest.

4/8/2013; Updated 5/10/2013, 5/23/2013

217 of 237 people found the following review helpful.
5Excellent not-quite-pocket-sized camera.
By William Grose
I must admit. I'm a tad spoiled as my wife has been using the absolutely fantastic Sony DSC-RX100, so I figured I'd do a little comparison between the RX100 and X20, with some standalone thoughts on the X20.

First, the X20 is a very attractive camera, because it captures that retro look very well. On the flip-side, you could take out the X20 at a party and easily convince everyone you bought it in 1985. That's a good thing or a bad thing depending on your standpoint. :-)

Anyway, the build quality is excellent. This is a solid-feeling camera, much more so than the Sony RX100. However, that solidity comes with some seriously more weighty... weight.

Weight:
Sony DSC-RX100 with battery = 8.5oz
Fujifilm X20 with battery = 12.7oz

That means the Fuji is a hair under 50% heavier than the Sony, and it's quite noticeable.

Dimensions:

Sony DSC-RX100 = 4 inches (w) x 2.3 inches (h) x 1.4 inches (d)
Fujifilm X20 = 4.6 inches (w) x 2.7" (h) x 2.2" (d)

That dimensional difference, too, is extremely noticeable. The additional weight and size means you're not carrying this on your person unless you have very baggy pockets. The lens sticks out considerably further on the X20 contributing to this.

That said, the Fujinon lens on the X20 is excellent, - an absolutely joy to use. This camera is much, much easier to attain dreamy bokeh on than the Sony, due to the much wider aperture at full zoom (f2.8 on the Fuji vs 4.9 on the Sony). In this regard, the Sony can't touch the Fuji, despite the Sony's much larger sensor size (double the Fuji's!). Also, quite niftily, you can attach a 40mm-to-52mm ring adapter to the X20's lens, thus enabling you to use all manner of cheap UV, polarizing and neutral density filters etc. Awesome.

I'm using this one, personally, and it works just great because it works as a lens hood, too: EzFoto 52mm Filter Adapter + Lens Hood for Fuji X10, with a free lens cap

The X20 has a manually-activated flash that pops straight up and points dead ahead, unmoving. The Sony RX100 has a shutter-activated flash, and has the outstanding ability of being able to be pointed up to the ceiling and used as a bounce flash (as well pointing straight ahead). While it's not a blazingly-poweful light, in a pinch it works great in relatively small rooms, and portraits have turned out infinitely better than a head-on flash using this feature. I was surprised to be able to do this, but it's such a great little feature! I wish the X20 worked similarly.

In terms of menus etc, neither the Sony nor the Fuji have particularly intuitive interfaces, and both have a learning curve before you'll feel anywhere near adept. The nod has to to go the Sony, though, as the menus feel quite modern and.. swish. The Fuji's menus aren't terrible, but I found myself quite a bit more frustrated trying to navigate around them. They're just quite clunky.

The X20 has two dials on the top of the camera. One is for your typical pictures modes (aperture/shutter priority, manual, special picture modes etc), and the other, inexplicably, is an exposure compensation dial from -2 to +2. I was surprised that Fuji dedicated a dial to this one feature, and assumed there would be more uses for the dial that I'd discover by digging through the manual. Nope. Page 49 says the following:

"Use exposure compensation when photographing very bright, very dark, or high contrast subjects."

That's it. A whole dial (described in just a single sentence in the manual) dedicated to one thing that could easily be accessed via a shortcut menu. Crazy!

On the plus side, the X20 has a viewfinder - yay! While it's only an 85% viewfinder (you'll have some image around the edges that you'll see in post-process that you don't see through the viewfinder), it works "OK" (see March 27 edit, below), but does show you plenty of useful information (iso, f/stop, shutter speed). It's great to be able to keep your eyes through the viewfinder and change settings once you learn the controls. Good stuff. It can sometimes be a bit tricky to focus your eyes on the projected text in the viewfinder, though, but you tend to get used to it.

The X20 features 49 selectable focus points on the LCD, and I found each and every one of them to be very accurate.

While the RX100 and X20 both have panorama functionality, I found the RX100's to be superior, with less erroring between frames when they're stitched together. Both do a great job, though.

The X20, sadly, does not have an HDR mode built in that I could find. This is an extremely useful feature, and I've seen some absolutely fabulous, natural-looking HDR'ed shots from the RX100 that, sadly, won't ever come from the X20.

The X20 shoots at 12fps, which is two more than the RX100's 10fps. Both are blazingly fast, though the RX100 is shooting 10fps at 20MP, whereas the X20 is shooting 12fps at only 12MP. I need to spend more time comparing files from both cameras, but you won't be disappointed by the images from the X20, that's for sure.

The X20 has an absolutely fantastic macro mode, letting you get as close as 0.4 inches away from your subject. It's truly excellent for the dreamy-bokeh lovers out there, because the subject separation is stellar.

Overall, in my initial testing, the X20 is a super camera. It's not the game-changer the RX100 is (sensor size and variety of features in such a small package), but what you do get is a superior lens, no optical low pass filter - for crispy photographs, an actually usable viewfinder, 12fps, superb build quality, and delicious, delicious bokeh! If you're cross-shopping the RX100 and X20, it's certainly a tough decision. If fitting a camera in your purse or pocket is important, the RX100 wins hands down. For build quality? The Fuji. Photo quality? Well... I won't jump to any conclusions until I've had more time to test (this review will be updated!). So far, though, the X20 seriously impresses.

Only the menu-system learning curve and inexplicable exposure compensation dial nag at me, but this camera is still full of win.

5 stars out of 5.

*EDIT March 27, 2013*

More time with this camera has shown that it really is a competent shooter, and here are a few more tidbits:

1.) ISO3200 is the highest attainable when shooting in the RAW format vs 12800 in JPEG. Not a big deal in my experience. ISO800 and 1600 are quite pleasant, but the jump from 1600 to 3200 is really significant in terms of the difference in noise. ISO800 and ISO1600 add a pleasing (dare I say it!) noise grain to the image which is not objectionable, whereas ISO3200 just turns things a bit muddy at the pixel level, especially in really low light or with dark objects.

2.) At the time of typing, you need Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 4.4 Release Candidate to process the RAWs from the X20. Not a problem.

3.) There is no "real" indication of focus point when looking through the optical viewfinder. A large green box will appear to show you the "rough" approximation of where the camera is focusing, but it's simply not good enough, especially for macro photography. That means that while you may have set the focus point to the top left of the image, you have no way of knowing exactly where that focus point is when you're looking through the viewfinder because the box shown through the VF is so vague. This is actually a pretty significant shortcoming. The camera lets you actually shrink the focus points down on the LCD using the main command dial (for more precise focus on an object), but there's no indication of this through the viewfinder; the giant green rectangle still shows you roughly, but not exactly, where you're focusing. Not good enough, in general, but I think it's "good enough" for just using the center point. If you're shifting the focus point, stick to the LCD and don't bother with the VF.

4.) 9fps is the max when shooting in RAW, and 12fps is the max shooting JPEG.

5.) The X20 has the rather nifty feature the Sony RX100 has, and that is the focus->recompose feature (Tracking Autofocus). With the RX100 and X20 you can have the focus point dead center on the LCD, and lock it on whatever object you want to be in focus. Then you can move the camera (recompose), and the square will stay on the object you're trying to have in focus (yes, the focus square will shift position on the LCD). Essentially it's a focus->recompose tool where the recomposing still maintains perfect focus, and it works excellently!

6.) Bokeh really is excellent with this lens. That can't overstated.

7.) You can see the lens through the viewfinder at 28mm, but at around 42-43mm the lens is no longer visible.

8.) It's quite easy to change f-stop by mistake with the command dial or sub-command dial, so keep your fingers away from there. Those dials rotate VERY easily (especially the sub-command dial).

9.) Any case that works with its predecessor, the Fujifilm X10, will work with the X20. I bought this one on Amazon, and it works perfectly!

Ever Ready Black Leather Case Bag for Fujifilm FinePix X10

Yes, it says X10 (subtly indented into the leather rather than obviously emblazoned in some funky-colored stitching), and since there are no specific X20 cases available yet (as of this edit), this a great clone of the Fuji official case.

*EDIT* April 18, 2013:

Still really enjoying this camera. The battery life I've found to be not great, though, so be sure to pick up an extra battery if you want to get more than a few hundred shots while you're out and about.

In the comments for the review, it was brought to my attention that Marumi makes a 40mm filter that does fit the Fuji X20. Marumi 40mm DHG Lens Protect Filter for Fuji X10 -40mm- (Made in Japan) This will work great, and has the added benefit of you being able to put the lens cap back on, too (though not quite as snugly). The downside is that you lose the hood functionality the 40mm->52mm adapter gives you, and that the filter choice is not as great at the 40mm size. For example, I haven't been able to locate a 40mm (40.5mm will not fit) neutral density filter. Boo!

While I linked a cheaper, third-party 40mm-52mm hood/adapter earlier in the review, Fujifilm makes their own 40mm-52mm hood/adapter, but it is more expensive. I'm including it here for reference, though:

Fujifilm Lens Hood X10 for Digital Camera

*EDIT* May 13, 2013

1.) I didn't mention this in the original review, but the X20 has a lens cap that must be removed before taking photos. You can always leave it off when the camera isn't in use, but that isn't recommended since you want to protect that excellent Fujinon lens. Conversely, the RX100 has an integrated electric cap that opens and closes on the lens when you turn the power on/off. In terms of convenience, the RX100 is hard to beat, though some might not find the "manual" lens cap too bothersome.

2.) If you're left-eye dominant (i.e. you look through viewfinders with your left eye), you'll be able to rest the X20 against your nose like you do on an SLR, - when using the viewfinder. This is great for steadying shots. However, if - like most people, you're right-eye dominant, your nose will stick out to the left of the camera, and so doesn't help you steady the shot at all. Boo!

3.) The build quality of the X20 really is excellent. While my love for the RX100 is no secret, it doesn't hold a candle to the solidity that comes with the X20. The more I use both cameras, the more I appreciate that about the X20.

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35 of 36 people found the following review helpful.
5May be the best point and shoot on the market!
By R. Voorhees
I couldn't wait to get my hands on one of these, so I picked one up at the local BB, and I have to say, the wait was worth it. This is probably as close to a DSLR as you can get while still keeping the ease of a pocket sized point and shoot. It's laden with features, such as object tracking (think golf swing analysis!), lock in auto focus, which is great for movies...oh, and speaking of movies, it shoots full 1080p at 60p, and the image stabilization is incredibly efficient, even at the full 20x optical zoom. Smooth, smooth video on par with a GoPro without the fish eye effect.

The sensor is amazing. extremely low light with no noise, and super crisp pictures...ALMOST on par with the NEX 5T. I generally give a camera the "jeans" test, where I shoot a close up of denim fabric, then blow it up to fullest magnification and look at the detail level. The detail level looks like a microscope...exactly what I look for.

The LED display is fairly intuitive, is bright and crisp, so you get an excellent idea of how your pictures will look when printed. My only complaint is that I'm used to a touch screen, which this doesn't have. Some people like that, some people don't. I would have preferred one as it makes navigating so much easier, but again, the point is quality photos and video. I'll throw a couple shots up so you can see for yourself.

I won't say this is a steal at $299.00, but in this case, you DO get what you pay for.

Great, great camera!

7 of 7 people found the following review helpful.
5WX 350 Sony Camera
By Gimparoo
Awesome camera, great features. NFC, Wi-Fi.... Connect to my TV (Sony) and check out the pictures, or with a cable to watch my movies is fun, easy and great! The movies this camera takes is just amazing... The pictures are awesome. The ease of use is just too fun... You will be plenty happy with this small form factor camera and its amazing capabilities! Battery life will surprise you on how long it lasts...

3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
5Great replacement for phone photo addiction
By Delphine
Very happy with this. Indoors with flash the colors are not always true but it's pretty darn sweet and so many other ways. I've been looking for a camera to replace my cell phone. I was looking for something truly tiny that I could keep with me; something that, though menu driven, would give me more photographic control. I shoot both a Nikon DSLR and the Sony Nex 7 but I found that I was addicted to using my cell phone on a day to day basis because of the size and ease of uploading images to FB. I started out with a Sony Nex 3n which is an excellent camera with a full size APS sensor, and it did ride in my purse nicely in the fake leather cover. But, when I saw this one I determined that it would be even better...plus I got rid of the Fuji SX I was keeping around for the 675mm reach( It was heavier than my DSLR).

It starts up fast! I like to turn it on and see how fast I can get a shoot. The lens can be fully extended to reach 500mm and the focus is fast. The wifi transfer was quick and easy. I'm used to using Sony cameras so there was not learning curve.

My main hesitation was the size of the sensor. But, compared to a phone with 8mp and a really tiny sensor, the image quality is amazing.

This camera also makes sense because I am never going to get out to 500mm with a Nikon lens on my camera; can't afford it.

I purchased the genuine leather case for this directly from Sony. Free shipping and 15% off when you register you're camera. That way I feel comfortable throwing the camera in my purse or sticking it in a pocket. Plus it is so classy in the case. Looks like something special, which it is.

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Minggu, 22 November 2015

Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras

Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras..


Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras

Special Price Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras By Nikon

Most helpful customer reviews

2212 of 2250 people found the following review helpful.
5One of the best lens for portrait and low light photography. Please check if your camera require AF-S lens instead
By Sidarta Tanu
I don't even know where to start. This lens produces sharp pictures and great color and contrast. And for its price (which seems to climb recently), it is worth more than 5 stars rating. I initially get this lens for low light action and sport photography (as this lens is famous for being one of the fastest lens together with its brother 50mm f/1.4), but I also found out that this lens is also perfect for portrait and other general purposes (macro etc). This is definitely a very versatile lens.

It is important to note that you will need camera with internal AF motor (D90, D300, D600, D700, D800, D7000, etc) for this AF lens autofocus to work properly. If your camera is D40/D60/D3000/D5000 series (no internal AF motor), you will need to get the AF-S type lens, otherwise if you get this AF lens, only the manual focus will be available to you.

And as much as I want to encourage everyone to buy this lens right away, let me mention some of the limitation that you would see (which I think will be helpful to go over before deciding to buy this lens):

First, being a prime lens, you will need to move your feet a lot to compose your picture. If you are used to zoom lens, don't underestimate this limitation. It takes me a while to get used to it, and sometime I still find people looking at me wondering why I am moving forward and backwards. the good news is that most of the time, they don't think I'm weird, but they are actually wondering if I'm a professional photographer.

Secondly, the focal range of 50mm, which is considered the normal lens and great for portrait lens. but on many DSLRs which is not full frame (unless you have a full frame Nikon DSLR like the D700 or D3, then 50mm is 50mm), this lens become a 75mm equivalent which is in the border of a short tele lens. I actually like the 75mm equivalent though I often have to move backwards when taking picture of a group of people.

Third, in some situation the autofocus might not able to focus (which is common for many other lens too). It is hard for the autofocus to lock when aiming at a wall that is one color (usually black or white), or on a clear sky (day or night). This kind of makes sense to me actually. IN these situations the AF assist light doesn't help either so you can opt for manual focus or set the focus to infinity when you can't find focus lock on scenic/landscape or sky photography. So far I don't have many problems with the autofocus.

Sharpness increases as you stop down to f/2.2 or f/2.5. I actually use f/1.8 most of the time and the results are still nice. Personally, I'd rather use f/1.8 aperture settings than stopped down (e.g to f/2.8) and compensate with higher ISO setting which often gives me grainy picture. But if your object is not moving (static) then it is better to stop down to f/2.8 or more.

If you are wondering whether you should get a fast lens or a lens with VR (Vibration Reduction), here's my take: In overall, VR does help a lot (as it will reduce camera shake) and will produce better/sharper picture than equivalent lens without VR (especially if the object is static). If the object is moving (sports/action) then VR feature alone might not help (depending on how fast the object is moving and how much light is available), and a fast lens often end up being a far better solution, even without VR feature as it will allow much faster shutter speed to freeze motion. Using tripod (and a remote) will substitute for the need of VR feature. In general I would recommend getting a fast lens with VR feature (and usually it is expensive) such as the 70-200 f/2.8 VR, but if one can only get for one or the other, then find out what do you want to use the lens for and then use the guideline mentioned here.

If you are wondering whether you will get the benefit of buying f/1.4 lens over a f/1.8 lens, just remember that the f/1.4 lens is about 60% faster than f/1.8 at its widest aperture setting. With this information, you can decide if the additional speed will justify the additional cost. The bokeh is nicer as well in f/1.4 lens but I think speed is usually the main factor in deciding whether to get the more expensive f/1.4 lens.

Here are the summary of pros and cons for this Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF lens:

Pros:
1. Very fast (f/1.8)
2. Very sharp pictures (especially when stopped down to f/2.2, f/2.5 or more.)
3. Great for sport/action photography
4. Great for indoor and low light situation
5. Great for portrait
6. Bokeh is almost as good as many expensive Nikon tele-lens
7. Fast autofocus
8. Good for wedding photography (or no-flash event). However, if this is your main objective then you might want to get the 50mm f/1.4 version or 28-70mm f/2.8 lens)
9. 75mm equivalent which can be considered a short tele lens (I actually like the fact that it's 75mm equivalent vs 50mm in DSLR. if you need more zoom, you can get the Nikon 85mm f/1.8, or the 70-200mm f/2.8 VR). If you have full frame DSLR(like the D3 or D700), then this #9 pros is not applicable.
10. Inexpensive

Cons:
1. Being prime lens, you need to move your feet a lot to adjust/compose
2. Autofocus issue on some situations (read detail above)
3. Plasticy build
4. Autofocus is not the most silent but very reasonable
5. 75mm equivalent with 1.5x multiplier on non full frame DSLR (many people find this is an odd range for normal lens. I actually like it). If you have full frame DSLR(like the D3 or D700), then this #5 cons is not applicable.
6. Autofocus does not work with D40, D40x, D60, D3000, D3100, D3200, D5000, D5100, D5200 etc (basicaly D40/D60/D3000/D5000 series. it's best to check if your camera body require AF-S lens). The newer 50mm f/1.8G AF-S, 50mm f/1.4G AF-S lens or 35mm f/1.8G AF-S lens will autofocus with those cameras.

Bottom line: This lens is so versatile (and inexpensive) that I think everyone should own in addition to all the lenses that they already have. Being a very fast lens, it enables me to take pictures in low light (sport/action photography) that I otherwise wouldn't be able to do.
After knowing its limitation, I would predict that 99% of you that decides to buy this lens will find this lens very useful. And if you decide that you don't like it (which I think not more than 1%), I'm sure there will be a lot of people who wouldn't mind buying it from you (with some discount of course).

Again, I would recommend everyone to get this lens. In some ways I can say that this lens makes me a better photographer.

Happy Photographing!

Sidarta Tanu

276 of 292 people found the following review helpful.
5Dollar for dollar the best buy in a bright sharp lens
By Albert J. Valentino
This lens is probably the sharpest lens that Nikon makes--see lens reviews/specs at [...] I use this lens for low light situations outdoors and indoors so I don't need a flash. also, small dept-of-field. Using this at f/2.0 I will get at least four-six times as much light (which means four-six times faster shutter speed) as my zoom at around f/4.8 and also have a sharper image. For $99.00 this f/1.8 is a steal and a much better buy than the f/1.4 which is almost as sharp a lens and costs about $250.00--it's a no brainer.

I use this with my Nikon D70--remember, with a digital SLR this is equivalent to a 75mm lens for film which it a pretty good portrait lens.

Just buy it--for the price you can't go wrong.

506 of 549 people found the following review helpful.
3Possibly a bad sample?
By Glenn Carpenter
I was surprised to find, after reading so many positive reviews of this lens, that the copy I received was so fuzzy at wide-open apertures that I could see it on UN-MAGNIFIED images right on my D90's 3" screen.

All lenses lose sharpness at wide apertures: this is a matter of basic physics and is the result of something called spherical aberration. Some are much better than others though, thanks to better optical designs that more effectively correct for this tendency. The 35mm f/2, for example, is very good wide open; the 85mm f/1.8 is decent (and very appropriate for portrait use). My copy of the 50mm f/1.8 lost both sharpness and significant contrast as f/1.8 was approached. I would quantify it as follows:

f/1.8: very fuzzy (well beyond "soft"), reduced contrast, almost un-useable
f/2.8: still quite soft, much improved contrast
f/4: slightly soft, good contrast
f/5.6: sharp, good contrast
f/8: very sharp, good contrast

These results were repeatable on my sample and held true regardless of shutter speed and technique.

Notes:

- The advantage of a lens like this is the ability to use wide apertures. A good portrait lens need not be particularly sharp, but wider than f/4 my copy of this lens was soft enough that I would use it for nothing other than casual people-photography. It would not suffice for critical night or low-light photography, or for general photography where sharpness might be desired. For photos of people it was fine at f/2.8, but below that it lost so much sharpness, and enough contrast, that photos of almost any subject looked dull.

- The lens seems like an obvious choice as a first prime due to its price and the many excellent reviews of it here on Amazon and elsewhere. Even besides the sharpness degradation wide open, I found it less useful than I'd hoped. On a crop-size DSLR, it is a short telephoto lens, and it just hasn't turned out to be a focal length I use all that much. I would urge potential buyers to consider the 35mm f/2 before this lens as it gives the traditional "normal" perspective on a Nikon crop-size DSLR.

- Some reviewers like this lens for portrait use, but again, I found it poorly suited for this. The 85mm f/1.8 is admittedly more expensive, but it has far more potential as a portrait lens.

- This is not a high-contrast lens. It does not use any ED glass elements, which seem to be quite magical at improving contrast, and color rendition is noticeably less vibrant than such lenses. For some types of photography this can actually be desirable, but for general or landscape photography I prefer the higher-contrast lenses.

- My sample of this lens may have been below average, considering that most reviews of the lens are very positive. However, if you read carefully, most thorough reviews do mention that it loses contrast and acuity at wide apertures. Ken Rockwell, for example, has reviewed the lens very positively, but when it came time to suggest lenses sharp enough to be used on the new D3x, with its ultra-high-resolution sensor, he gave the similar-performing (possibly better) f/1.4 "G" version only three stars. I would submit that it is really not quite as sharp a lens as its reputation would lead one to believe. My excellent 16-85mm DX zoom, for example (the only lens I've given a five-star review as of this time), is far sharper than this lens up to around f/8 and hold an edge even there and beyond.

- Nikon has recently announced a new 35mm f/1.8 DX lens. I've ordered one and will probably post a review once I've had a chance to use it. I would suggest that it is very likely to be a better choice than this lens for almost any DX user. Being designed for the smaller DX sensor, it will probably be optimized for high linear resolutions within the smaller DX image circle. It is also a fairly inexpensive lens, not much more than this lens now that the 50mm has crept up a bit in price.

- Even if my sample is significantly poorer than average, my experience indicates that it would be a good idea to thoroughly test a copy of this lens before committing to buy it. Be sure to compare images at wide apertures to those made at f/8, where sharpness should be very good, and determine for yourself whether the loss of sharpness and contrast is acceptable for your purposes.

- Focus is plenty quick and accurate, at least on my sample. No problems at all in this regard (and none expected).

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eSecure All-in-1 USB Card Reader for all Digital Memory Cards

eSecure All-in-1 USB Card Reader for all Digital Memory Cards..


eSecure All-in-1 USB Card Reader for all Digital Memory Cards

Grab Now eSecure All-in-1 USB Card Reader for all Digital Memory Cards By eSecure

Most helpful customer reviews

66 of 68 people found the following review helpful.
4Portable Multi-Card (SD, SDHC, CF, MMC, Etc.) Reader
By Richard La Barca
This little multi-card reader is a nice item to have...it's small enough to carry with you to use with your laptop, netbook or other USB enabled device to read, copy or transfer files on various memory cards.

My main purpose was to have a CF (compact flash, which I still use) reader to use with my laptop. For the couple of bucks paid, I am very happy with this item.

The only thing lacking is that it will only read one card at a time...it shows as a single USB connected device in Windows Explorer (My Computer).

Still, this is just a very convenient card reader to have available.

98 of 106 people found the following review helpful.
5Big Bang, Little Bucks!!!! GREAT
By The One
So i bought a Lexar and an Esecure All in 1 mini card reader. Today i received both and put them to the test.

TEST
Transfer 4 mov files that total 877mb. Here are the results.
CF Card used Transcend 600x

Lexar (FIREWIRE 400)
test 1 = 00:00'58"3
test 2 = 00:00'58"4
test 3 = 00:00'58"3

Esecure (USB 2.0)
test 1 = 00:00'27"1
test 2 = 00:00'34"2
test 3 = 00:00'26"1

I was a little disappointed that the Lexar took longer because i expected it to be faster.

Lexar - CF cards ONLY
Esecure - 150 different cards

Lexar - Expensive (approx $45)
Esecure - Cheap (approx $10)

The size of the Esecure is smaller than the Lexar.

WINNER ESECURE ALL in 1 by far. Recommended by me.

I'll update review if things change as far as malfunctions and durability.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CKC8W8/ref=oh_details_o06_s02_i00

Hope this review was helpful.

57 of 63 people found the following review helpful.
1Don't be tempted to buy this card reader if you use CF.
By Loeb
The form factor and feature set for this card reader is awesome. The price is awesome too. I read all the reviews for this card reader and decided that I am more careful than the other reviewers who bent the pins in the CF slot. Wrong. Even though I knew to be extra careful and I have never bent a pin in another CF reader, this one bent after only a few uses. If you need to use the CF slot, find another product.

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Kamis, 12 November 2015

Kingston Digital 60GB SSDNow V300 SATA 3 2.5 (7mm height) with Adapter Solid State Drive SV300S37A/60G

Kingston Digital 60GB SSDNow V300 SATA 3 2.5 (7mm height) with Adapter Solid State Drive SV300S37A/60G..


Kingston Digital 60GB SSDNow V300 SATA 3 2.5 (7mm height) with Adapter Solid State Drive SV300S37A/60G

Grab Now Kingston Digital 60GB SSDNow V300 SATA 3 2.5 (7mm height) with Adapter Solid State Drive SV300S37A/60G By Kingston

Most helpful customer reviews

337 of 358 people found the following review helpful.
3Just a word of warning about this particular SSD
By W. Sumner
Kingston seems to have pulled a Samsung and entered this device into the infamous hardware lottery. if you have version 5.05 of this device, then you are good to go and will achieve all rated speeds, power consumption, etc for it. This version of the device is manufactured in Taiwan.

As of version 5.06, it is a total crapshoot if you will get a good drive manufactured in Taiwan or one from their other manufacturing sites in China. The mainland Chinese versions to put it nicely, don't even come close to the rated read/write speeds for this particular device, with write speeds falling from the advertised rate to a max of 240 mb/s on SATA III (device is officially rated at over 500 mb/s write speeds and the 5.05 version regularly achieves 540 mb/s).

There are similar warnings and whatnot about this issue about the drive on other sites, with some customers going so far as accusing Kingston of bait-n-switch after submitting the 5.05 to all of the review sites where it was benchmarked and scored numerous high marks and then almost immediately (within two months) releasing the 5.06 into the retail market.

246 of 263 people found the following review helpful.
1Horrible 5.0.6 firmware ruins SSD
By john fuhreck
*update 1/12/14* Firmware is not the issue, Kingston switched to asynchronous NAND

Seems I found the real culprit after speaking with several SSD experts on various tech forums, get ready for a class action lawsuit Kingston. Here's the scam, Kingston switched to cheap asynchronous memory chips that don't run in parallel after the first few months of production.

That means single channel bandwidth instead of multiple channels like earlier v300 SSD's. Instead of running at 200mhz, its running at 66mhz. This effects read and write speeds enormously.

Kingston hid this fact by using solvent on the original labeling of the memory chips, then printed their own logo on top. Kingston does not manufacture any memory themselves. When SSD was shipped out for review it used quality Toshiba 19nm NAND but Kingston used solvent on chips labels and printed their own. This was odd, but the reason for it soon became obvious. After only a few months they switched to inferior quality chips with the same Kingston label.

NO OTHER SSD MANUFACTURER ERASES ORIGINAL NAND LABEL AND PRINTS THEIR OWN ON TOP!

This is FRAUD in my opinion and Kingston could very well be seeing a class action lawsuit coming there way for this stunt. Other SSD makers have tried this crap in the past and got busted. They were forced to RMA all the drives back to synchronous memory chips which cost much more.

Kingston switched to cheaper quality NAND without saying a word. Firmware for Sandforce SSD's cannot cause you to lose 70 percent of read and write speeds. Lesson learned, never buy anything from Kingston again, they are criminals.

91 of 101 people found the following review helpful.
1¡Warning! Read this BEFORE you purchase this sddnow v300 120gb drive it is a SLOW DRIVE
By Ricardo R.
This is my first review.
I was pretty excited to get this drive because I saw it in “good” price and for all the positive reviews, however, I did a little research and I found that this drive is SLOW, because Kingston advertise that is about 450 megabytes per second both read and write but it does at approximately 170-130. I’ll summarize the info for you.
There are 3 types of firmware with this drive, the one I got has the firmware 5.0.6, which is the main problem because it slows down the drive for any reason. The other two are previous 5.0.5 firmware’s (they don’t have the problem), you can find which firmware the drive has by looking at the sticker in front of the drive, the one I got is 506ABBF0, or 5.0.6, you can also see it if you download the toolbox program from Kingston website.
However, by now there is no possibility to downgrade to the previous 5.0.5 firmware, or upgrade to the already release 5.0.7 that might correct the problem. The thing is that maybe all of this was planned. First Kingston sell this drive with the 5.0.5 firmware and quality components that reaches incredible speed and everybody rate it with positive reviews, but once it has gain a high reputation Kingston now produces a low quality cheap NAND flash inside of it, several people complains that maybe the problem is far beyond the firmware, maybe is the crappy quality products inside of this drive and therefore the firmware upgrade will never come, because the problem might be the product itself.
I use different benchmark programs (like crystal disk mark, as ssd or atto) and all the speeds and writes in sequential mode are around the 170-130, not even close to the 450 mb that Kingston advertise.
Save your money and instead go for a Samsung or San Disk drive, I read that they do what they say about the writing and reading speeds. I’m from Mexico and I bought this drive online at amazon, I don’t know if I can return it, and if I can ¿how? Should I have to pay for the shipping cost? Now I know why the drive was “on sale”, Amazon wants to get rid of it.
If you don’t believe my story and you think “It will not happen to me” first I encouraged you to just google: 506ABBF0 firmware.
I regret about purchasing this drive, I WILL NEVER BUY KINGSTON PRODUCTS AGAIN.
By the way, amazon shipping service are great, I receive the drive just in a few days after I place the order, shame that I just got a lemon drive.

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